Bologna’s medieval skyscrapers and mouthwatering cuisine make it Italy’s best-kept secret. While tourists flock to Rome and Florence, this terracotta-hued city in Emilia-Romagna offers a more authentic Italian experience where locals still outnumber visitors on most streets.
The medieval Manhattan that predates New York by 800 years
During the 12th and 13th centuries, Bologna’s wealthy families engaged in an architectural arms race, constructing nearly 180 towers to display their power and wealth. Today, only 22 survive, creating one of Italy’s most distinctive skylines.
“Our towers represented family pride and protection during turbulent times,” explains Marco Bianchi, a local historian. “The higher your tower, the more powerful your family appeared to rivals.”
The most famous pair, Asinelli and Garisenda (known as Due Torri), stand as the city’s iconic symbols. At 97 meters, Asinelli Tower offers breathtaking panoramic views for those willing to climb its 498 wooden steps. Its companion, the dramatically leaning Garisenda, even earned a mention in Dante’s Inferno.
The food capital that launched a thousand imitations
Bologna’s nickname “La Grassa” (The Fat One) celebrates its rich culinary heritage. Forget spaghetti Bolognese – here, it’s tagliatelle al ragù, wide ribbons of fresh egg pasta coated in slow-simmered meat sauce.
In the Quadrilatero, the medieval market district, food stalls overflow with mortadella, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and balsamic vinegar. This sensory paradise has remained essentially unchanged for centuries, much like other historic European towns frozen in time.
Portici: 40 kilometers of elegant covered walkways
Bologna’s most distinctive architectural feature may be its extensive network of porticoes – covered walkways supported by columns that line nearly every major street. These elegant structures, now UNESCO-listed, have sheltered pedestrians from rain and sun since the Middle Ages.
The most impressive is the Portico di San Luca, a 3.8-kilometer arcade with 666 arches that climbs to the hilltop Sanctuary of San Luca. This architectural marvel rivals even ancient Inca stonework in its precision and beauty.
Europe’s oldest university and its macabre secret
Founded in 1088, the University of Bologna claims the title of oldest continuously operating university in the Western world. Its historic headquarters, the Archiginnasio, houses a hidden gem: the Teatro Anatomico, a 17th-century anatomical theater where early medical students observed dissections.
“Students would watch for hours as professors revealed the mysteries of human anatomy,” says Professor Elena Rossi. “The wooden room’s carved statues of famous physicians overlooked proceedings that revolutionized medical understanding.”
Where to taste authentic Bolognese specialties
For the city’s best tortellini in brodo (meat-filled pasta dumplings in broth), locals head to Trattoria Anna Maria, where pasta is still handmade daily. Nearby Osteria del Sole, operating since 1465, invites guests to bring their own food while purchasing wine from their extensive selection.
Bologna’s culinary traditions mirror those found in coastal regions like France’s hidden beach havens – both celebrating authenticity over tourist-friendly adaptations.
Beyond Bologna: day trips to hidden gems
Just outside the city, the Ducati Museum showcases Italy’s iconic motorcycle heritage with gleaming exhibits of vintage racing machines. For nature lovers, island escapes may be far away, but the rolling hills of Emilia-Romagna offer their own pastoral beauty.
Bologna sits at the crossroads of Italian culture, where ancient traditions meet modern life in a city that feels simultaneously grand and intimate. Like cities where multiple traditions converge, Bologna embodies Italy’s soul without the overwhelming tourism that has transformed other destinations.