Petra, Jordan’s ancient rose-red city, remains one of humanity’s most spectacular achievements, a 2,000-year-old marvel carved directly into sandstone cliffs. As I stepped through the narrow Siq canyon for the first time, the towering walls created an almost mystical journey before dramatically revealing Petra’s crown jewel – the Treasury.
The dramatic entrance that few visitors truly appreciate
The entrance to Petra begins with the Siq, a natural 1.2-kilometer gorge flanked by 80-meter high cliffs. This isn’t merely a pathway but an experience unto itself. As the canyon narrows to just three meters wide in places, ancient water channels carved by Nabataean engineers still line the walls, showcasing their remarkable engineering skills.
“The Siq isn’t just a passage; it’s a deliberate architectural experience designed to build anticipation,” explains Mohammad, my local guide. “The Nabataeans understood dramatic effect centuries before Hollywood.”
The Treasury – a monument more impressive than photographs suggest
When the Treasury (Al-Khazneh) finally appears through the Siq’s final bend, the 40-meter tall rose-red facade seems to glow with inner light. Contrary to its name, archaeologists believe it served as a royal tomb rather than a treasure house. The early morning hours (before 8 AM) offer the most magical experience, when sunlight bathes the carved columns in golden-pink hues.
Beyond the Treasury lies a hidden city most tourists miss
While many visitors turn back after seeing the Treasury, Petra extends far beyond this iconic facade. The ancient city spans 264 square kilometers, with only 15% excavated. The Street of Facades, Theatre, Royal Tombs, and Colonnaded Street showcase the extensive urban planning of what was once a thriving metropolis of 20,000 people.
For the adventurous, the hike to the Monastery (Ad-Deir) rewards with Petra’s largest monument. The challenging 800-step climb takes about an hour but reveals a massive facade even more impressive than the Treasury, measuring 50 meters wide and 45 meters tall.
Ancient water engineering that still impresses modern experts
The Nabataeans transformed a desert location into a thriving city through sophisticated water management. Their elaborate system of dams, cisterns, and channels controlled flash floods and stored water for the dry season. This engineering prowess allowed sustainable living in harsh conditions, much like other ancient civilizations developed around water.
The magical Petra by Night experience few travelers know about
Three nights weekly, Petra offers an enchanting experience as 1,500 candles illuminate the Siq and Treasury. Walking the candlelit path creates an atmosphere reminiscent of how the ancient Nabataeans might have experienced their city. The flickering lights against the rose-colored stone create an almost otherworldly ambiance.
Little Petra: The hidden gem only locals seem to know
Just six kilometers north lies Siq al-Barid, known as Little Petra. This smaller archaeological site served as a suburb of Petra and trading post. With few tourists, the site offers a more intimate experience of Nabataean architecture, including a dining hall with remarkably preserved ceiling frescoes depicting grape vines and cupids.
Why the Jordan Pass makes perfect financial sense
For international visitors planning to stay at least three nights in Jordan, the Jordan Pass offers exceptional value. Starting at 70 JOD (approximately $99), it includes your tourist visa and entrance fees to over 40 attractions, including Petra. Given Petra’s entry alone costs 50 JOD for a single day, the savings are substantial.
“The Jordan Pass has revolutionized tourism here,” says Fatima, a local tour operator. “Visitors now explore beyond Petra to discover our country’s other natural wonders.”
Where to stay: The surprising comfort of Wadi Musa
The town of Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses) serves as Petra’s gateway, offering accommodations ranging from budget hostels to five-star luxury. Petra Guest House, built at the site entrance, features a unique cave bar set in a 2,000-year-old Nabataean tomb. For budget travelers, hostels like Seven Wonders offer rooms under $25 with spectacular views of Petra’s surrounding mountains.
A desert sunset experience that rivals any on earth
For a truly magical experience, hike to the High Place of Sacrifice late afternoon. This ancient ceremonial platform sits atop Jebel Madbah mountain, offering panoramic views across Petra and the surrounding desert. As the setting sun bathes the rose-red city in golden light, the stone seems to ignite from within, creating a moment of transcendent beauty that rivals Australia’s most stunning sunsets.
Standing among the ancient stones as daylight fades, I found myself transported across millennia, connected to the thousands who walked these paths before. Petra doesn’t just showcase human architectural achievement; it demonstrates our enduring desire to create beauty that defies time itself.