Castelló d’Empúries is Spain’s most captivating medieval gem hiding in plain sight. Just 48 kilometers from Girona in the heart of Catalonia, this ancient town once served as the capital of the powerful County of Empúries. While tourists flock to Barcelona and Costa Brava beaches, this historic treasure offers an authentic journey through time with remarkably preserved medieval architecture and a surprising lack of crowds.
A basilica so grand they call it “The Cathedral of Empordà”
The town’s crown jewel is the Basilica of Santa Maria, a Gothic masterpiece that dominates the skyline. Construction began in the 13th century with ambitions to make it a cathedral, though it never officially gained that status. Step inside to discover an extraordinary baroque organ, intricate alabaster altarpiece, and a Romanesque crypt that whispers stories from centuries past.
“Our basilica represents the golden age of Castelló, when counts and merchants made this town the economic powerhouse of medieval Catalonia,” explains local historian Maria Puig. “The stained glass still catches sunlight exactly as it did 700 years ago.”
Walk the same streets as medieval counts and merchants
Unlike many reconstructed tourist towns, Castelló d’Empúries preserves its authentic medieval street layout. Narrow, winding alleys lead to unexpected plazas and ancient stone buildings. The 14th-century Casa Grande and the imposing Palacio Condal (town hall) transport visitors to an era when this was one of Catalonia’s most important cities.
For those fascinated by medieval architecture, other hidden Catalan treasures await just a short drive away, offering similar architectural marvels without the tourist crowds.
Medieval justice comes alive at the Cúria-Prison
Perhaps the most fascinating site is the town’s former medieval court and prison. Visitor can descend into original cells where prisoners awaited their fate centuries ago. Most remarkable are the graffiti etchings made by inmates – crude drawings and desperate messages that humanize history in a way museum placards never could.
Industrial heritage preserved at the Ecomuseum-Farinera
Castelló’s history isn’t solely medieval. The impressive Ecomuseum-Farinera occupies a restored flour mill, showcasing traditional milling machinery in perfect working condition. This industrial heritage site offers a fascinating glimpse into how water power transformed grain into flour, supporting local communities for generations.
A past intertwined with Jewish heritage
Wandering through the Call Judío (Jewish Quarter), visitors discover another layer of Castelló’s rich history. This neighborhood once housed a thriving Sephardic community before the expulsion of Jews from Spain in 1492. Today, subtle architectural clues reveal this hidden heritage.
Those interested in exploring other historic villages with rich cultural tapestries might enjoy French Catalan villages where cork trees tell centuries-old stories.
Experience medieval life during Terra de Troubadours
Every September, Castelló transforms during the Terra de Troubadours festival. The streets fill with costumed performers, medieval music, authentic craft demonstrations, and period food stalls. Unlike commercialized medieval fairs elsewhere, this celebration maintains historical accuracy while bringing genuine joy to participants.
“During Troubadours, we don’t just remember our history—we live it,” says festival organizer Jordi Sánchez. “The town becomes a time machine, and for a few days, we all become medieval citizens again.”
Beyond stone walls: natural wonders await
The town’s appeal extends beyond history. Nearby Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park offers remarkable bird watching opportunities, while coastal beaches like Playa la Rubina lie just minutes away. Adventure seekers can explore nearby mountains similar to those where French monks built monasteries between heaven and earth.
For the historically curious, the region also holds prehistoric treasures comparable to sites that have rewritten European prehistory.
Savor authentic Catalan cuisine in medieval settings
Restaurants like Portal de la Gallarda and El Racó de Castelló serve traditional Catalan cuisine in centuries-old buildings. Local dishes feature fresh Mediterranean ingredients: tender rabbit with garlic sauce, seafood paella, and escalivada (roasted vegetables) paired with regional wines.
Those seeking authentic mountain experiences might consider visiting hidden French villages in the Pyrenees that offer similar culinary authenticity with alpine views.
Standing in Castelló d’Empúries’ main plaza as evening bells ring from the basilica, time seems to fold in on itself. Modern life recedes, and for a moment, you understand what made this town the jewel of medieval Catalonia. In an age of overtourism, Castelló offers something increasingly rare: an authentic encounter with the past that doesn’t feel manufactured for visitors—because it never needed to be.