The imposing medieval fortress stands sentinel atop the Montgrí massif, its stone walls catching the first light of dawn. Below, the medieval streets of Torroella de Montgrí begin to stir with life. This charming town in Spain’s Girona province isn’t on most tourists’ radar, yet it offers something truly special: a perfect fusion of medieval history, breathtaking natural landscapes, and crystal-clear Mediterranean waters—all without the crowds that overwhelm more famous Costa Brava destinations.
A fortress with unfinished stories
The Castle of Montgrí, built between 1294 and 1301 by King Jaume II, was never completed yet remains the defining landmark of the area. The 40-minute hike to reach it rewards visitors with panoramic views that stretch from the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean Sea. While challenging, the trail is manageable for most fitness levels.
“The castle appears almost as a mirage at dawn, when the first sunlight hits the stone walls and creates this golden crown effect on the mountain,” says Margarita Sánchez, a local hiking guide. “Many visitors tell me it’s worth waking up at 5 AM just for that sight.”
Where three ecosystems converge
Torroella sits at the heart of Montgrí, Medes Islands, and Baix Ter Natural Park—a protected area where mountain, river, and sea create a biodiversity hotspot. The Medes Islands, just offshore from nearby l’Estartit, harbor one of the Mediterranean’s most vibrant marine reserves. For underwater enthusiasts, it’s comparable to Spain’s other coastal gems, but with far fewer visitors.
Medieval streets with three cultures’ footprints
Walking through Torroella’s historic center reveals its designation as a Historic-Artistic Site. Narrow stone streets wind past buildings showing Greek, Roman, and Moorish influences—reminiscent of the cultural fusion found in other Spanish medieval cities where multiple faiths once coexisted.
Beyond beaches: mountain adventures
While nearby l’Estartit offers beautiful beaches, Torroella provides access to the GR92 Mediterranean trail and Pirinexus cycling route. These connect to extensive networks extending into the Pyrenees, where you’ll find ancient Catalan villages that transform into ski paradises during winter months.
The sunrise ritual
For those willing to rise early, the hike to Castle Montgrí for sunrise offers the region’s most spectacular view. The Mediterranean coast appears bathed in pink light, with fishing boats creating tiny silhouettes against the horizon. The castle’s hollow interior and cylindrical towers frame these views perfectly, creating natural viewfinders for photographers.
Diving into another world
The Medes Islands Marine Reserve offers diving experiences rivaling more famous European destinations. Glass-bottom boat tours provide alternatives for non-divers, revealing colorful fish, coral formations, and even shipwrecks beneath the surface.
“I’ve been diving all over the Mediterranean for twenty years,” explains Ramon Vidal, a local diving instructor. “The biodiversity here still surprises me daily—from octopuses hiding in ancient amphorae to schools of barracuda swirling around you like living silver tornadoes.”
Day trips to cultural icons
Torroella makes an excellent base for exploring Catalonia’s treasures. The Empúries archaeological site, Salvador Dalí’s residences, and Girona’s medieval quarter are all within easy reach. Even forgotten European capitals with Belle Époque elegance can be visited on longer day trips.
Authentic Catalan dining
Local restaurants serve traditional Catalan cuisine featuring fresh seafood from l’Estartit’s fishing fleet. Try suquet de peix (fish stew) or arròs negre (black rice with squid ink) at family-run establishments where recipes have remained unchanged for generations.
The training ground secret
The varied terrain around Torroella has become a training ground for professional cyclists, similar to other medieval Spanish villages where pro cyclists train. The combination of coastal flats and challenging mountain climbs creates perfect conditions for both amateur and professional riders.
Standing atop Montgrí’s castle as golden light bathes the landscape, you’ll understand why this unassuming town deserves recognition. Torroella de Montgrí offers that increasingly rare travel experience—a place where authentic culture, natural beauty, and historical significance combine without the intrusion of mass tourism. It’s not just a destination; it’s a revelation of what travel should be.