Shetland’s Hidden Treasure: Exploring the Windswept Isle of Yell
Scotland’s second-largest Shetland island remains a mystery to most
While travelers flock to Scotland’s mainland attractions, a wild, untamed landscape awaits just two ferry rides from the northern tip of Great Britain. Yell, the second largest of the Shetland Islands spanning 83 square miles, offers an authentic escape where golden plovers call across blanket peat bogs and pristine beaches remain blissfully empty even in summer months.
“The moment you step off the ferry at Ulsta, you feel the weight of modern life lift from your shoulders,” explains local naturalist Fiona Sandison. “Yell has a quiet magic that reveals itself slowly to those patient enough to discover it.”
A landscape shaped by wind and sea
Yell’s interior features expansive peat moorlands punctuated by small crofting villages, while its coastline presents dramatic cliffs and award-winning beaches. The Sands of Breckon and West Sandwick showcase Shetland’s natural beauty at its most raw and powerful, with weather-sculpted dunes meeting crystal waters that rival any Mediterranean shore.
What makes these beaches extraordinary isn’t just their beauty but their solitude. Even during peak summer months, you might share the entire stretch of golden sand with only a few seabirds and perhaps an inquisitive seal.
Wildlife encounters that rival expensive safaris
Yell offers world-class wildlife viewing opportunities that cost nothing but time and patience. The island serves as a summer nesting ground for golden plovers and curlews, while its coastal waters host playful otters and occasionally passing whales.
Amateur ornithologists will find the coastal paths particularly rewarding. Unlike the crowds jostling for position at popular Arctic birdwatching sites, here you’ll likely have prime viewing spots entirely to yourself.
Cultural treasures at the end of Britain
The Shetland Gallery in Sellafirth holds the distinction of being the UK’s northernmost art gallery. Open from April through September, it showcases works from talented local artists who capture the islands’ unique light and atmosphere.
History buffs should visit The Old Haa in Burravoe, home to an exhibition dedicated to renowned Shetland naturalist Bobby Tulloch. His remarkable photographs document the islands’ flora and fauna in stunning detail.
“Yell doesn’t broadcast its treasures with flashy signposts like tourist hotspots do. Our history is written in stone walls and croft houses, in the patterns of waves against our shores,” shares local historian Magnus Johnson.
Self-guided adventures reveal hidden corners
Yell’s self-guided walking routes offer spectacular coastal views without the crowds found on Spain’s popular hiking trails. The paths take you to hidden smugglers’ caves at Hamnavoe and ancient ruins that speak to the island’s 5,000 years of human habitation.
The Burraness Broch, with its weathered stone walls standing defiantly against Atlantic gales, provides a tangible connection to Iron Age inhabitants who faced the same wild elements modern visitors marvel at today.
Practical tips for the intrepid explorer
May and September offer the ideal balance of milder weather and fewer visitors. Inter-island ferries run regularly, making Yell accessible despite its remote location. While car rental provides flexibility, the Shetland bus network connects major points of interest.
Pack layers regardless of season – Shetland weather changes rapidly, often cycling through four seasons in a single afternoon. Waterproof outerwear is essential, as is an appreciation for the dramatic skies that sudden weather shifts create.
A culinary scene centered on simplicity
Unlike the elaborate wine experiences of France’s hidden villages, Yell’s gastronomy centers on straightforward preparations of exceptionally fresh ingredients. Local shellfish, lamb, and homemade baking feature prominently in the island’s culinary offerings.
The Sunday teas hosted in community halls provide not just nourishment but insight into local life that no restaurant could match. These gatherings offer visitors the chance to experience Shetland hospitality at its most authentic.
“Our food tells the story of who we are – resilient, unpretentious, and connected to the land and sea in ways modern city dwellers have forgotten,” notes local chef Anna Manson.
A rich heritage preserved in stone and story
Yell shares in the Norse heritage that defines Shetland culture, with place names and local customs tracing back to Viking settlers. This connection to ancient traditions creates an atmosphere similar to that found in medieval French villages where history feels tantalizingly close.
On Yell, the past isn’t cordoned off behind museum glass but lives in the rhythm of daily life, visible in everything from traditional boat-building techniques to the patterns of stone walls that have withstood centuries of gales.
As evening light stretches endlessly across Yell’s summer skies, time seems to expand as well, offering visitors the increasingly rare luxury of unhurried exploration. In a world of overtourism, this windswept isle remains a sanctuary where nature sets the pace and authenticity isn’t manufactured but simply exists, waiting to be discovered.